A certain manner towards customers is required by a fourth generation master of a 128-year-old shop<\/h4>\n\n\n- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- When did Ginza Sushiko Honten first open?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- In 1885.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- So, it has been open for more than 100 years this year.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- That\u2019s right. It\u2019s been 128 years. I am the 4th generation master.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- So did you hold a lavish party on the one hundredth anniversary?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- No, we try not to stand out too much (laughs).<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- I\u2019m not convinced at all (laughs).<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- If we do that sort of thing, we could actually lose some of our customers. For example \u201cWhy did you invite that person and not this person?\u201d or \u201cWhy are that person and that person on the list but my name is not?\u201d<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Wow, that\u2019s frightening.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Ginza has a certain character, so these interactions are complicated. Some of our customers are literally living national treasures, so we try to treat our customers with the consideration required of a long-established restaurant.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n\n
![](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Connect_24_01.jpg\")
\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\nAll sushi restaurants before the Great Kanto Earthquake were takeout<\/h4>\n\n- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Sushiko is an Edomae-zushi (Tokyo Bay sushi from the Edo period) restaurant with a long history. Could you tell me the difference between current sushi and that of the Edo period?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- The most obvious difference is that upscale restaurants in the Edo period never let you eat at the actual restaurant. They were takeout only. Many people imagine that there have been counter seats since Edo times, but this is incorrect.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- No kidding?! I had no idea.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- It was only after the Great Kanto Earthquake that people were finally allowed to eat at the restaurant. The area was all burnt ruins, and everyone was left penniless. Then the Kansai Kappo (Kansai area-style culinary art) people came to Tokyo. The Kansai Kappo style became popular in Tokyo, and counter seats came along with it to sushi restaurants. Until then they were all take out or catering. By catering, I mean high-class catering.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- No kidding. I figured that because it\u2019s raw, it would be eaten right away in front of the chef.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes, so even though it was a sushi restaurant, all the food was given some extra preparation, like searing or soaking it in soy sauce. There were no refrigerators or ice in those days, so they made sushi with a great deal of seasoning.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- So that\u2019s Edomae-zushi from the Edo period.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. It is nothing like today\u2019s sushi.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Certainly not. When I think about it, there are no scenes of counter seats in the old Japanese books.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Definitely not. They first appear in the works of Naoya Shiga. Until then there are none. If you search through Edo literature, you will certainly not see any scenes of the eating sushi. Also, there are no recipes left behind.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Music may be similar. For example, there are no musical scores of gagaku (old Japanese court music) left behind. It was passed down by simply listening to and remembering it.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Culture is indeed an oral tradition. Some were surely written down, but they all got burned in the end, and none remain.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
![](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Connect_24_02.jpg\")
\n<\/div>\n\n![](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Connect_24_03.jpg\")
\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/p>\n
\nDinner time is a time for courting. We also offer wine that goes well with sushi<\/h4>\n\n\n- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Sushiko also offers alcoholic beverages that go well with sushi.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. Particularly in Ginza, dinner time is a time for courting. Not just men making advances on women, but all types of courting. For example, bringing in a company president or manager to talk, asking them \u201cWon\u2019t you come to my company?\u201d or \u201cWon\u2019t you buy our product?\u201d On these occasions, tea is not good enough. There has to be alcohol. So we also have hors d\u2019oeuvres in addition to sushi.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Everyone in my family loves sushi, but none of us can drink. So as soon as we arrive, we ask for sushi. All six of us at once (laughs).<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Is that so? To a sushi restaurant, that is the best type of customer.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- You also offer Western-style wine, which is unusual for a sushi restaurant.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. We started offering it because we had a customer that would only drink wine. Then I started studying wine myself. I began keeping those that suit sushi and getting rid of those that do not, and eventually worked together with Jacob\u2019s Creek, a long-established wine brand in Australia, to develop a wine that is great with fish and soy sauce.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- You made your own wine! You must be quite particular. So, do many people order wine instead of Japanese sake and shochu for sushi these days?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes, but it does vary with the customer. That is why we make every effort to prepare, so that we can meet all customer requests. The attending side considers how to make sure the customer is satisfied, so I want our restaurant to be one that meets customer expectations. I want people to think that they can take anyone to our restaurant, no matter how picky the other person is. After all, they spend a lot of money coming to Ginza.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Did you stock a wide range of alcohols so that you could meet the picky requests of customers?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. For example, if we are told, \u201cI can only drink such-and-such wine,\u201d it is an essential part of service to be able to respond with \u201cWe have it.\u201d With beer, most places only stock one brand, but we have four. So, Ginza places are a little more expensive, but this is because we put in the effort to make sure we can meet the needs of all different kinds of customers. If you want a place that meets the needs of all types of customers, regarding service, food, or anything else, go to somewhere in Ginza.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- That\u2019s a lot of work! Ginza certainly is a special place.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- I feel that Ginza is a place for special occasions. For example, to celebrate your wife\u2019s birthday or your daughter getting into university. On those occasions, you think, \u201cLet\u2019s go to Ginza today,\u201d and put on some special clothes. That\u2019s the type of place Ginza is. Because there are so many customers celebrating special events, I run our restaurant with vigilance.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n\n\n
![](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Connect_24_04.jpg\")
\n<\/div>\n\n![](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Connect_24_05.jpg\")
<\/p>\nWine co-developed by Sugiyama<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n\n![](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Connect_24_06.jpg\")
\n<\/div>\n\n![](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Connect_24_07.jpg\")
\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\nHaving an atmosphere that people feel safe bringing others to is an important condition of a sushi restaurant<\/h4>\n\n- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Do you have anything in particular you do in your free time?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Savings, taxes, and reading (laughs).<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Impressive! That\u2019s wonderful.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- I also enjoy listening to classical music.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Oh, really?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. I enjoy going to the opera. I only go about twice a year, though. And sometimes I sleep through the whole thing (laughs).<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- I have also fallen asleep before. I dozed off for a bit, and when I opened my eyes, it was still the same scene (laughs).
What kind of books do you read? I won\u2019t read any book where someone doesn\u2019t die by page two.<\/dd>\n - Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- I am basically the same (laughs). I read all sorts of books, but mostly novels.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Finally, can you tell us what makes a great sushi restaurant and a great sushi chef?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Most important is safety. Safety and comfort. While food hygiene is obviously important, so is the atmosphere of the surrounding conversation. I think a good restaurant is one without bad manners where you feel comfortable taking your girlfriend or daughter. A good restaurant is one that upholds the occasion of a wedding anniversary or daughter\u2019s celebration.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- That is not something you can create easily. It takes a long time\u2026<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. It is extremely difficult to keep everybody happy. And we are seeing many customers for the first time. It is the skill of the chef to know how to win over the customer in a short time and make sure the occasion goes well. Whether it\u2019s someone with their parents or a pair of friends, I work hard to let them use our restaurant as a place for courting and make sure they go home satisfied.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n\n
The next guest will be\u2026<\/h4>\n\n- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Could you tell us about the next guest?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- It Mr. Kumagaya, the president of Kyukyodo, a shop that is famous for incense. This shop has maintained incense, calligraphy and other elements of Japanese culture since Edo times. It will be worth your while just hearing about the history.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n\n
![](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Connect_24_08.jpg\")
<\/p>\n\nChisako Takashima<\/h4>\n
Violinist. Started playing the violin at age 6. After playing abroad, she moved her home base to Japan, and gives concerts all over the country. Although her current focus is on performing music, she also appears on TV and radio programs. Thanks to her much-loved personality, she is appearing in more and more venues.<\/p>\n
- \n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- When did Ginza Sushiko Honten first open?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- In 1885.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- So, it has been open for more than 100 years this year.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- That\u2019s right. It\u2019s been 128 years. I am the 4th generation master.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- So did you hold a lavish party on the one hundredth anniversary?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- No, we try not to stand out too much (laughs).<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- I\u2019m not convinced at all (laughs).<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- If we do that sort of thing, we could actually lose some of our customers. For example \u201cWhy did you invite that person and not this person?\u201d or \u201cWhy are that person and that person on the list but my name is not?\u201d<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Wow, that\u2019s frightening.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Ginza has a certain character, so these interactions are complicated. Some of our customers are literally living national treasures, so we try to treat our customers with the consideration required of a long-established restaurant.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n
All sushi restaurants before the Great Kanto Earthquake were takeout<\/h4>\n
- \n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Sushiko is an Edomae-zushi (Tokyo Bay sushi from the Edo period) restaurant with a long history. Could you tell me the difference between current sushi and that of the Edo period?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- The most obvious difference is that upscale restaurants in the Edo period never let you eat at the actual restaurant. They were takeout only. Many people imagine that there have been counter seats since Edo times, but this is incorrect.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- No kidding?! I had no idea.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- It was only after the Great Kanto Earthquake that people were finally allowed to eat at the restaurant. The area was all burnt ruins, and everyone was left penniless. Then the Kansai Kappo (Kansai area-style culinary art) people came to Tokyo. The Kansai Kappo style became popular in Tokyo, and counter seats came along with it to sushi restaurants. Until then they were all take out or catering. By catering, I mean high-class catering.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- No kidding. I figured that because it\u2019s raw, it would be eaten right away in front of the chef.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes, so even though it was a sushi restaurant, all the food was given some extra preparation, like searing or soaking it in soy sauce. There were no refrigerators or ice in those days, so they made sushi with a great deal of seasoning.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- So that\u2019s Edomae-zushi from the Edo period.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. It is nothing like today\u2019s sushi.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Certainly not. When I think about it, there are no scenes of counter seats in the old Japanese books.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Definitely not. They first appear in the works of Naoya Shiga. Until then there are none. If you search through Edo literature, you will certainly not see any scenes of the eating sushi. Also, there are no recipes left behind.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Music may be similar. For example, there are no musical scores of gagaku (old Japanese court music) left behind. It was passed down by simply listening to and remembering it.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Culture is indeed an oral tradition. Some were surely written down, but they all got burned in the end, and none remain.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n
\nDinner time is a time for courting. We also offer wine that goes well with sushi<\/h4>\n
\n- \n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Sushiko also offers alcoholic beverages that go well with sushi.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. Particularly in Ginza, dinner time is a time for courting. Not just men making advances on women, but all types of courting. For example, bringing in a company president or manager to talk, asking them \u201cWon\u2019t you come to my company?\u201d or \u201cWon\u2019t you buy our product?\u201d On these occasions, tea is not good enough. There has to be alcohol. So we also have hors d\u2019oeuvres in addition to sushi.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Everyone in my family loves sushi, but none of us can drink. So as soon as we arrive, we ask for sushi. All six of us at once (laughs).<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Is that so? To a sushi restaurant, that is the best type of customer.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- You also offer Western-style wine, which is unusual for a sushi restaurant.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. We started offering it because we had a customer that would only drink wine. Then I started studying wine myself. I began keeping those that suit sushi and getting rid of those that do not, and eventually worked together with Jacob\u2019s Creek, a long-established wine brand in Australia, to develop a wine that is great with fish and soy sauce.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- You made your own wine! You must be quite particular. So, do many people order wine instead of Japanese sake and shochu for sushi these days?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes, but it does vary with the customer. That is why we make every effort to prepare, so that we can meet all customer requests. The attending side considers how to make sure the customer is satisfied, so I want our restaurant to be one that meets customer expectations. I want people to think that they can take anyone to our restaurant, no matter how picky the other person is. After all, they spend a lot of money coming to Ginza.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Did you stock a wide range of alcohols so that you could meet the picky requests of customers?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. For example, if we are told, \u201cI can only drink such-and-such wine,\u201d it is an essential part of service to be able to respond with \u201cWe have it.\u201d With beer, most places only stock one brand, but we have four. So, Ginza places are a little more expensive, but this is because we put in the effort to make sure we can meet the needs of all different kinds of customers. If you want a place that meets the needs of all types of customers, regarding service, food, or anything else, go to somewhere in Ginza.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- That\u2019s a lot of work! Ginza certainly is a special place.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- I feel that Ginza is a place for special occasions. For example, to celebrate your wife\u2019s birthday or your daughter getting into university. On those occasions, you think, \u201cLet\u2019s go to Ginza today,\u201d and put on some special clothes. That\u2019s the type of place Ginza is. Because there are so many customers celebrating special events, I run our restaurant with vigilance.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n<\/p>\n
Wine co-developed by Sugiyama<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\nHaving an atmosphere that people feel safe bringing others to is an important condition of a sushi restaurant<\/h4>\n
- \n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Do you have anything in particular you do in your free time?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Savings, taxes, and reading (laughs).<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Impressive! That\u2019s wonderful.<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- I also enjoy listening to classical music.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Oh, really?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. I enjoy going to the opera. I only go about twice a year, though. And sometimes I sleep through the whole thing (laughs).<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- I have also fallen asleep before. I dozed off for a bit, and when I opened my eyes, it was still the same scene (laughs).
What kind of books do you read? I won\u2019t read any book where someone doesn\u2019t die by page two.<\/dd>\n - Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- I am basically the same (laughs). I read all sorts of books, but mostly novels.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Finally, can you tell us what makes a great sushi restaurant and a great sushi chef?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Most important is safety. Safety and comfort. While food hygiene is obviously important, so is the atmosphere of the surrounding conversation. I think a good restaurant is one without bad manners where you feel comfortable taking your girlfriend or daughter. A good restaurant is one that upholds the occasion of a wedding anniversary or daughter\u2019s celebration.<\/dd>\n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- That is not something you can create easily. It takes a long time\u2026<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- Yes. It is extremely difficult to keep everybody happy. And we are seeing many customers for the first time. It is the skill of the chef to know how to win over the customer in a short time and make sure the occasion goes well. Whether it\u2019s someone with their parents or a pair of friends, I work hard to let them use our restaurant as a place for courting and make sure they go home satisfied.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n\n
The next guest will be\u2026<\/h4>\n
- \n
- Takashima<\/dt>\n
- Could you tell us about the next guest?<\/dd>\n
- Sugiyama<\/dt>\n
- It Mr. Kumagaya, the president of Kyukyodo, a shop that is famous for incense. This shop has maintained incense, calligraphy and other elements of Japanese culture since Edo times. It will be worth your while just hearing about the history.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n\n<\/p>\n\n
Chisako Takashima<\/h4>\n
Violinist. Started playing the violin at age 6. After playing abroad, she moved her home base to Japan, and gives concerts all over the country. Although her current focus is on performing music, she also appears on TV and radio programs. Thanks to her much-loved personality, she is appearing in more and more venues.<\/p>\n