{"id":9009,"date":"2017-11-01T10:00:23","date_gmt":"2017-11-01T01:00:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ginza.jp\/?p=9009"},"modified":"2017-11-06T11:05:39","modified_gmt":"2017-11-06T02:05:39","slug":"%e9%bb%92%e5%b7%9d-%e5%85%89%e5%8d%9ax%e9%ab%98%e5%b6%8b-%e3%81%a1%e3%81%95%e5%ad%90","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ginza.jp\/en\/connective\/9009","title":{"rendered":"Mitsuhiro Kurokawa\u00d7 Chisako Takashima"},"content":{"rendered":"

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The five-century history of Toraya, Japan\u2019s prestigious long-established confectionery store <\/h4>\n
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Takashima<\/dt>\n
Toraya is said to have been established in the Muromachi (1338-1573) period. Have you always been a wagashi (Japanese confectionery) store? <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
Yes, we have. We are not sure of the exact year of establishment, but we started our business in Kyoto in the 16th century and we have made wagashi since then. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
That means you have been in business for almost\u2026<\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
Almost 500 years. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
That is amazing! When did you come to Tokyo? <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
When the capital was moved from Kyoto to Tokyo in Meiji 2 (1869), we established a new store in Tokyo as a Royal Warrant holder, keeping our store in Kyoto. In Meiji 12 (1879), we opened the store in Akasaka. Our store in Ginza was only opened after World War II. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
What is Toraya\u2019s oldest wagashi to your knowledge? <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
The oldest order received from the Imperial family on record (according to a copy of order) dates back to 1635. By 1695, a catalogue of our line of confectioneries had been produced. According to records, the \u201cTokonatsu,\u201d the confectionery made from kudzu (arrowroot starch) that you are eating now, was made as a higashi (dry confectionery) in 1711. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
Really!? I understand that you need sugar to make wagashi, and I would presume that it was a luxury back in those times. <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
Yes. Sugar is said to have been brought to Japan from China by Ganjin\u2013wajo during the Nara (710-794) period, when it was very valuable and used for medical purposes rather than as a sweetener. A more common sweetener was the five-leaf ginseng, which also appears in Makura-no-soshi by Seisho Nagon. However, since all sweeteners were rare at the time, this wagashi may not have been made as sweet as it is today, even if it was shaped the same. <\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n
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Akasaka store on New Year\u2019s Day in Taisho 14 (1924) <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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The charm of wagashi lies in its representation of changing seasons <\/h4>\n
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Takashima<\/dt>\n
Could you please define wagashi? <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
My definition of wagashi is confectionery made from plant-based ingredients. For example, this confectionery is made from kudzu (arrowroot starch) and azuki red beans. Although some baked confectioneries use eggs, wagashi basically does not include animal ingredients. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
I see! That is indeed true. Are there any other characteristics that are unique to wagashi? <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
Another important feature of wagashi is that it depicts each season. At this time of year (early July at time of interview), kudzu (arrowroot starch) gives confectioneries a refreshing appearance and texture. The name \u201cTokonatsu (perpetual summer)\u201d also matches the season. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
Come to think of it, the names of many wagashi sound like they were derived from literature. <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
My wish is for wagashi to be enjoyed using all five senses \u2013 the sense of taste, sight, smell, touch, and also hearing. In that aspect, the name of wagashi is an important factor. The impression of a name can change the impression of the taste. This sensation was also shared by our ancestors, who named confectioneries after lines from Genji Monogatari (The Story of Genji) and Kokin Wakashu. A lot of thought was put into the name of wagashi. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
Have you encountered any inspiring names recently? <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
Yes, the \u201cYururuka.\u201d This old Japanese word appears in Genji Monogatari and means \u201cgentle\u201d or \u201ccalm.\u201d The \u201cYururuka\u201d is a \u201cyokan,\u201d or a bar of gelled sweet bean paste made chiefly of azuki beans, sugar, and agar-agar, arranged to feature a texture soft enough for elderly people who have difficulty chewing and swallowing food to enjoy. It was named with the hope that people would embrace a rich relaxed time eating this confectionery. <\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n
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\"\u3086\u308b\u308b\u304b\"<\/p>\n

\u201dYururuka\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Commitment to wagashi and haute couture confectionery <\/h4>\n
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Takashima<\/dt>\n
How many different types of namagashi (fresh Japanese sweets) do you sell every month? <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
12-13 types. We have six to seven different types for the first half of a month and another six to seven for the latter half. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
Do you design new types of wagashi?<\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
Yes. We have a section where new confectioneries are developed, and new products are being experimented every day. Besides that, we sell namagashi depicting the animal of the year and the theme of the \u201cUtakai Hajime (annual New Year\u2019s poetry reading held at the Imperial Court)\u201d every year. We hold an in-house competition on the design and name of the namagashi depicting the animal of the year and \u201cUtakai Hajime,\u201d and the selected design is manufactured and sold. In December, we will start selling confectionaries designed in the image of the dog, which is the animal for 2018, and \u201c\u8a9e (go= word, language),\u201d the theme for \u201cUtakai Hajime 2018.\u201d <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
You have quite a homey atmosphere in such a large company. <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
You may be right. I find it important for staff members to work as a team.<\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
Do you use domestic ingredients?<\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
The place of origin is not an issue as long as the quality is good, but we end up using domestic products. We have tried working with imported ingredients in the past, but for example, domestic azuki beans are better than imports. Azuki beans made in the Tokachi region in Hokkaido, are particularly excellent. High quality ingredients are indispensable in making high quality confectionaries. Of course, the skills to make full use of such ingredients is also called for. At our company, the skilled artisans are very selective about the quality of the ingredients they use. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
I have heard that you also make customized confectionery.<\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
Wagashi stores originally took orders from their customers and made products that met their needs. In light of the origin of our business, we wanted to make confectionery specially created for one special customer. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
How does it work?<\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
We ask our customers if they have any special requests and what occasion the confectionery will be used for. Based on the information collected our staff will creatively come up with a design and make a trial product. For example, we would ask our customer the hobbies or preferences of the recipient. On my 60th birthday my wife ordered wagashi made in the image of a golf course for me.<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n
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Haute couture wagashi: wagashi design<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Haute couture wagashi: final product<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Enchanting pastry chefs worldwide: Toraya\u2019s sweets and future challenges <\/h4>\n
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Takashima<\/dt>\n
You also have a store in Paris?<\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
We opened our Paris store in 1980, so it has been 37 years. When the late owner of Toraya went to Paris, he felt something similar to Kyoto in the townscape and became determined to open a store in Paris some day. We were very fortunate because the year before we started our Paris store, there was an sweets exhibition in Paris, and wagashi was a very popular item. That and other opportune events led to the opening of our Paris store. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
What kind of wagashi is popular in Paris? <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
Namagashi. The French people are very interested in the beauty of each piece as well as the origin of their names. Also, since wagashi is made from plant-based ingredients, it is popular among people seeking healthy foods. <\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
That is true. Since wagashi doesn\u2019t include animal ingredients, it can be enjoyed by vegans. Do you ever receive proposals from overseas brands to collaborate on a product? <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
We occasionally do. However, we have no plans for the time being. Ten years ago, Mr. Pierre Herm\u00e9 (known worldwide as the Picasso of pastry) visited our factory saying that he wished to learn about wagashi and its ingredients.<\/dd>\n
Takashima<\/dt>\n
Then one day, Pierre Herm\u00e9 may release pastry using anko (azuki bean paste). <\/dd>\n
Kurokawa<\/dt>\n
I am very happy that wagashi is gaining wide recognition in the world. We hope to one day introduce yokan to a worldwide audience. We know that it will quite the challenge but we would like to see it happen. <\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n
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Toraya Paris store<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Hopes for Ginza to always be a warm place open to everyone <\/h4>\n
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Takashima <\/dt>\n
Before we close, please share your thoughts about Ginza.<\/dd>\n
Kurokawa <\/dt>\n
I remember an inspiring comment that Mr. Choichiro Motoyama of Sun Motoyama (high-end boutique carrying imported goods established in 1955 when it was the first of its kind). He said, \u201cGinza is home to old stores as well as new stores. It also has overseas brand stores. I would like to see not only our old customers but also young people and foreigners come to Ginza. We should not take an exclusionary attitude and say that someone \u201cdoes not belong here\u201d but instead be open to everyone.\u201d I agreed with him deeply. Our company may have a long history but 500 years ago we were newcomers, too. When you think about it that way, we are all the same. Just because one has been around for a long time, one should not be exclusive. I hope that Ginza will always be a warm place welcoming everyone. I believe that is why such a diversity of people are attracted to Ginza. <\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n
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Chisako Takashima<\/h4>\n

Violinist. Takashima started taking violin lessons from the age of 6. After a successful career abroad, she moved her home base to Japan, where she currently performs in concerts across the country. Highly noted for her character in TV and radio appearances, she has currently opened up her career to more diverse fields with an unchanged focus on her profession <\/p>\n

Chisako Takashima official website<\/a>\n<\/div>\n

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Mitsuhiro Kurokawa<\/h4>\n

Born in 1943. Kurokawa joined Toraya in 1969 after working for Fuji Bank (currently, Mizuho Bank). In 1991, he assumed the post of President and CEO. He is also Chairman emeritus of Japan Wagashi Association and Advisor to the Japan Specialty Store Association. He enjoys playing tennis. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Written by Mikiko Okai: Place of interview: Toraya Head Office<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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Mezamashi Classics with Friends\uff5eBest Vocalist\uff5e<\/h4>\n

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Mezamashi Classics, newly recorded pieces featuring renowned Japanese vocalists. <\/p>\n

Click here for details, including information on individual numbers. <\/a>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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