![\"\u6674\u6d77\u901a\u308a\u306e\u73fe\u5728\u306e\u5e97\u69cb\u3048\"](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Column_16_01.jpg\")
<\/p>\n\n\u3000Many people think that Teijin is an underwear brand, but TEIMEN in Ginza was famous for VAN shirts and blazers \u2013 the style that we usually refer to as the \u201cIvy look.\u201d
\n\u201cIt began when Mr. Kensuke Ishizu from VAN was advisor to the marketing division at TEIJIN. This location in Ginza was originally Teijin\u2019s textile showroom, but from the idea that if they opened a VAN store for young people in a prominent spot like this in Ginza it would attract a lot of attention and lead to a better corporate image, they opened the store in 1960.
\nMr. Shigeki Kagaya, from Teijin Associa Retail Limited, which currently supervises Teijin Men\u2019s Shop, told me the history of the store.
\n\u3000By the way, VAN was a pioneer of the times. The brand was founded in 1954, in the late Showa 20s, and like Teijin was first based in Osaka, so the two companies must have felt a sense of closeness, sharing the same hometown.
\n\u3000Mr, Kagaya showed me a picture of the store when it opened in 1960. The building was three stories high and through the large window, I could see a gracious winding staircase leading to the second floor. I managed to discern TEIJIN\u2019s logo on the outer wall, but could not find VAN\u2019s mark. But then, it was a time when there were only a few magazines like Men\u2019s Club and Danshi Senka that could advertise VAN\u2019s fashion.\n<\/div>\n
![\"1960\u5e74\u3000\u30aa\u30fc\u30d7\u30f3\u5f53\u6642\u306e\u5916\u89b3\"](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Column_16_02.jpg\")
<\/p>\n\n\u3000I have a copy of the December 28, 1964 edition of Heibon Punch that ran a special article titled \u201c1964 Illustrated Guide to Subulture History\u201d in which Chinpei Nozue, then one of the most prominent critics of young culture, made an interesting comment about the \u201cMiyuki-zoku.\u201d <\/p>\n
\u201dThe Miyuki-zoku came into being, influenced by the cover page of Heibon Punch. Shorts, \u201cFuten (hippie)\u201d bags\u2026 trends can be atrocious.\u201d <\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" \u3000Two summers ago, I happened to walk into Teijin Men\u2019s Shop and bought a shirt for the first time in many year … Continue reading
\nHow ignorant. This is why adults are not to be trusted. They think everyone who looks just a little different from others are all the same. They have no heart to tell the Ivy-zoku and Miyuki-zoku apart. Ignorance is terrifying. <\/span>
\n
\nThis excerpt must be read very carefully. The quotes are words spoken by an ignorant adult and Chinpei disagrees with them. From the context, we can guess that the young people on the cover page that Ayumi Ohashi illustrated were Ivy-zoku, but reading a few different histories of subculture, the distinction between the Miyuki-zoku and the Ivy-zoku is not always clear. \u201cFuten\u201d bags probably refer to the hemp sacks that the Miyuki-zoku would typically carry, but my conclusion is that the Miyuki-zoku, who originally wore funky accessories, eventually became more sophisticated and shifted to the \u201cIvy-zoku,\u201d influenced by the information provided in Heibon Punch and Men\u2019s Club. TEIJIN also undoubtedly played an important role in their sophistication from Miyuki-zoku to Ivy-zoku.
\n\u3000It was also in 1964 that VAN\u2019s head office and TEIMEN\u2019s second store opened in the intersection of Aoyama 3-chome. \u201cIvy\u201d fashion welcomes its peak two years later, in around 1966, when I was in fourth grade. It was a time when even Akira Mita sang a song titled \u201cIvy Tokyo\u201d to the electric guitar just like the then popular Ventures.
\n\u3000The song did not mention any particular \u201cIvy\u201d item, but it goes \u201cShinjuku, Ginza, city of love,\u201d and sings about young people dressed in the latest fashion enjoying new date spots that emerged after the Olympic Games. It was the same year that \u201cFutari no Ginza (Ginza for Two),\u201d a song with a similar beat sung by Masako Izumi and Ken Yamauchi also made the top charts.
\n\u3000Also in 1966, Snack VAN opened on the second floor of Ginza TEIMEN and became the meeting spot for the Ivy-zoku. When we say \u201csnack\u201d today, we tend to imagine a small bar with karaoke with a friendly middle-aged proprietress, but back then, a \u201csnack\u201d was a trendy term, rather close to what we would refer to as a caf\u00e9 or dance club. The song \u201cChiisana Snack (a small snack bar)\u201d by Purple Shadows became a hit, making snack bars popular in 1968, so Snack Van was ahead of the times.
\n\u3000I remember this snack bar with the VAN logo on its signboard on the second floor of TEIMEN very clearly, but it disappeared before I had the opportunity to set foot into the place.
\n\u3000There was a coca-cola vending machine in the store\u2026 is what I managed to learn about Snack VAN. Unfortunately, no detailed materials remain to tell us more about it. (The only item remaining from the snack bar is a chic round chair that was used in the snack bar and is currently preserved in the store.)\n<\/div>\n![\"\u30b9\u30ca\u30c3\u30af\uff36\uff21\uff2e\u3067\u4f7f\u308f\u308c\u3066\u3044\u305f\u6905\u5b50\"](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Column_16_03.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"\u30b9\u30ca\u30c3\u30af\uff36\uff21\uff2e\u306e\u5916\u89b3\"](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Column_16_04.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
\n\u3000Mr. Hirai, almost 73 years old, could only recall that \u201cthey might have served hot dogs and hamburgers\u201d but shared an exciting episode about merchandise selection.
\n\u201cIt was in the 1970s, when we started to carry not only VAN and KENT but also imports, that I happened to walk into a bookstore in Kanda specializing in Western books. I was browsing through the pages of an American Yacht magazine when my eyes fell on the stylish boat shoes worn by a yachtsman in one of the ads. It turned out to be a Topsider, which later becomes a sensational hit. I called the company immediately and negotiated so that we could purchase their products through Regal, with which we already had business relations. The shoes became one of our bestselling items in no time.
\n\u3000This was an episode that represented the dawn of a select shop, in times even before the magazine Popeye (founded in 1976) was launched.
\n\u3000On the day of the interview, I wore a sky blue G9 Swing Top from Baracuta, which Beams Plus started to sell a renewed series of last year. Again, it was TEIMEN that first imported this jacket in 1969. Back then, the colors, beige, which was called \u201cnatural,\u201d tan and navy were the popular colors.
\n\u3000The Baracuda Swing Tops were known as Ken Takakura\u2019s trademark jacket. I could not derive any such facts in the interview, but perhaps Ken-san also dropped by Ginza TEIMEN from time to time.\n<\/div>\n![\"\u30d0\u30e9\u30af\u30fc\u30bf\u59ff\u306e\u6cc9\u3055\u3093\"](\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/Column_16_05.jpg\")
<\/p>\n
\nIn the background, the TEIMEN building is under construction.
\n\u3000This movie, at the beginning of which Ueki briskly dances the \u201cTokyo gorin ondo (Tokyo Olympic Dance),\u201d was released in June 1964. Therefore, considering that the shooting would have taken place one or two months in advance, I would assume the current building was completed in the latter half of 1964.\n<\/div>\n