Uino

Ogikubo san, in this edition of “Exploring Ginza’s Archnitecture”, we will visit TOEI Kaikan (Marunouchi TOEI)

Ogikubo

Marunouchi TOEI is that movie theater on Sotobori-dori that we can see from the Sukiyabashi Intersection. I don’t recall anything special about it.

Uino

I wanted to visit it before it closes in July this year for reconstruction.

Ogikubo

So this is a special edition to appreciate a building that we will be losing soon.

Uino

Let us keep it in our records and memory.

Ogikubo

The building has always been there and I had never thought about how old it was. Is it so old that it needs to be rebuilt?

Uino

It was built in 1960 (Showa 3).

Ogikubo

That far back! That is three years before I was born. It had never occurred to me that it was such an old building, but come to think of it, the façade and windows do have a Showa look.

Uino

Don’ you find this intriguing?

Ogikubo

I do, I do. 1960 marks the beginning of Japan’s period of rapid economic growth—the golden age when movies were king of entertainment. I’m curious what movie theaters were like back then. How much remains from back then?

Uino

That is what we are here to find out!

A movie theater that lets you relive the high-growth era

Uino

So here we are at the Toei Kaikan, where we’ve been given a thorough tour and heard many stories from the old days. There’s so much to cover, I don’t even know where to begin. Any suggestions?

Ogikubo

I’d like to start by clearing up a basic question that’s always puzzled me.

Uino

Any what may that be?

Ogikubo

The Toei Kaikan is in Ginza 3-chome, yet it’s called “Marunouchi TOEI.” The name Marunouchi gives one the impression that it would be located on the other side of the JR train tracks. Technically, Marunouchi is the area on the inner side of the metropolitan expressway KK Line (which follows the path of the old inner moat), but Toei Kaikan is clearly on the outside.

Uino

Ah, the name. According to people at Toei, it may be because there used to be a bridge called “Marunouchi-bashi” (Marunouchi Bridge) in front of the theater, and several movie theaters with “Marunouchi” in their names were located on the other side.

Ogikubo

I wasn’t quite convinced about that, so I checked it out. I had a map of Chuo-ku from 1953 (Showa 28)—right after the Second World War, before the Toei Kaikan was built—and took a look. And guess what?

Uino

What did you find?

Ogikubo

There was a bridge called “Marunouchi-bashi” right next to where the Toei Kaikan now stands! It must have meant “the bridge leading to Marunouchi.” The Marunouchi Piccadilly is located on the inner side and there used to be the Marunouchi Nikkatsu and Marunouchi Toho as well. So the name “Marunouchi TOEI” totally makes sense.

Uino

Now that the mystery is solved, let’s dive into the glamour of the heart of entertainment from the high-growth era.

Ogikubo

The lobby has a nostalgic structure!

Uino

What do you mean by nostalgic?

Ogikubo

Most theaters nowadays are multiplexes. There’s a large shared lobby for multiple theaters where snacks and drinks are sold. There are benches and sofas where you wait until your movie is about to start and then proceed to the theater. But back in those days, each theater had a single entrance, and once you bought your ticket and entered, you were right at the theater doors.

Uino

I see. So you would see the movie poster outside and be excited, “Oh! Ken Takakura is in this one!” The you would buy a ticket, hand it to the usher, and head straight to your seat. Simple, but this kind of access to the theater built up the excitement. There is only a small snack counter that is labeled “concession.” It seems to be that the word “concession” is used for snack stands in movie theaters, but what does it mean?

Ogikubo

I was curious too so looked it up. “Concession” means “permission” or “license,” so a “concession stand” is a shop that has been given permission to operate in the theater.

Uino

Wow, I had no idea. It has a sophisticated ring. Oh, I found a vintage detail in the lobby. Look at the lovely pictograms on the restroom signs.

Ogikubo

You are right. The pictograms depict a classic lady and gentleman that really evokes the theater’s old-fashioned atmosphere.

Uino

Now let us enter the theater. Wow, this is what I call a theater! Such a luxurious space!

Ogikubo

This is classic too. Old movie theaters had doors at the back of the room. And I was surprised at the mild slope—modern cinemas have steeply inclined seating, and you look for your seat walking up from the entrance at the bottom of the steps stairs. It is like a shallow bowl.

Uino

Yet from any seat, the screen appears perfectly in your line of sight. Apparently, even the chair angles were carefully calculated.

Ogikubo

It helps that the screen is up on a big stage, making it easy to see. In modern theaters, you look down at the screen.

Uino

And the wide stage makes it perfect for actor greetings and stage events too.

Ogikubo

It even has second floor balcony seats that we rarely see today. This is indeed luxurious.

Uino

Those front-center balcony seats were once reserved seats, right? The seats are a bit plush. Perfect for date-nights!

Ogikubo

What makes this theater unique is that the upper floors are offices for Toei Company Ltd. There’s even a barbershop for employees in the building, which is open to the public.

Uino

The owner used to run a barbershop in Ginza. A regular customer from Toei suggested he open a shop in TOEI Kaikan to make it more convenient. Therefore, he knows the area from before TOEI Kaikan was built. He said that he used to sneak in and play catch on Sundays when it was still an empty lot.

Ogikubo

We’ve highlighted the spots where you can still feel the vibe of when movies at the heart of entertainment. Anyone visiting Marunouchi TOEI should definitely check these out.

Uino

I heard there used to be a café as well. It really was a landmark venue for entertainment.

Traces of history in unexpected places

Uino

Now let us continue diving deeper.

Ogikubo

When you say deeper, you must mean areas not open to the public, where only staff and insiders can access. Those non-public areas are where you often find old equipment and hidden gems.

Uino

We were lucky enough to be shown the projection room.

Ogikubo

That wall clock in the projection booth—doesn’t it look ancient? The font is classic. It does not have the manufacturer’s logo, but it would sell for sure if they made a replica.

Uino

The clock is fascinating too, but look at this window!

Ogikubo

That is the inspection window next to the projector which has not been changed from when they used film. Back then, the projectionist had to manually change reels, so they played each reel watching carefully through that window. Now the same room houses a modern digital projector. That contrast is amazing.

Uino

I’m amazed they managed to get this bulky equipment through that narrow, steep stairway.

Ogikubo

The air conditioning system is also worth noting. Both film and digital equipment release a lot of heat. Did you notice the pipe running in front of the projector that they used to let water flow? They used water to cool the equipment. Imagine doing all this before air conditioning existed. Oh look, more vintage gear!

Uino

Those speakers were used to relay announcements from the control room. Let us look at other spots from the high-growth era. We were recommended some spots by a Toei employee who is also a Toei enthusiast.

Ogikubo

First, the floor numbers on the stairs. The font is beautiful, but I especially love that lightning bolt-like symbol between the numbers.

Uino

And the dust chute! You never see these anymore. Trash dropped here would go straight to the basement, where they had an incinerator to burn the waste onsite.

Ogikubo

I would have thought that they collected the trash and loaded it ont to garbage trucks, but no—they burned it in-house. That is unthinkable today.

Uino

They even had their own backup generator in the basement, which to my surprise had been in use until quite recently. I was also surprised to see so many “No smoking while walking” signs everywhere.

Uino

Also worth noting are the mailboxes. Each floor had a drop slot for outgoing mail, which were all collected in a box on the first floor for postal pickup.

Ogikubo

I wondered where those mail from each floor went, and found the box at reception on the first floor. It says “Private Mailbox.” It is no longer used and is therefore taped shut, but I love that it’s still here. I think it is valuable that we can still be reminded of those old times.

Uino

Lastly, let us visit the rooftop. There’s a small Inari shrine up there.

Ogikubo

A surprise side-story from our “Visit Ginza’s Shrines” series.

Uino

I was moved to discover such an impressive Inari shrine after we concluded our “Visit Ginza’s Shrines” series. It is so beautiful and powerful.

Ogikubo

“The plaque reads ‘Toei Inari,’ and the names of successive company presidents are inscribed on the torii gates. It may have stood here since the building was first completed. The open sky feels especially vast, thanks to the absence of tall buildings nearby.”

Uino

You can see the building from the JR railway (then Japan National Railway) so they so they used to hang large movie banners on the walls. At one time, there was even a beer garden up here.

Ogikubo

Amazing. Watching Battles Without Honor and Humanity and then heading to a rooftop beer garden? That sounds exciting.

Uino

And that wraps up our journey from basement to rooftop through this 65-year-old theater.

Ogikubo

At first, I was not quite sure about covering a building slated for demolition. But it turned out to be full of traces of history, and every corner was fascinating. History is not told only through famous events, but can be found in places like this. I hope that many people can come to feel the atmosphere of the theater itself, which we discussed in the first half. When will it close?

Uino

It closes on July 27, 2025, so there’s still time! The theater opened in September 1960, so it will close just a little before its 65th anniversary. I have already booked my ticket!

Ogikubo

This is a good opportunity to feel the difference between a classic movie theater from the golden age of film and today’s multiplexes. Where else can you watch the latest movies using the latest tech—inside a 65-year-old movie theater?

Modern architecture featuring cutting-edge technology design and old prewar buildings are fascinating in their own right, but there’s a unique richness in the buildings from Japan’s high-growth era that could only be created then. I hope that many people have a chance to enjoy the building before it closes.

The “Sayonara Marunouchi TOEI” project has been launched, featuring a variety of special screenings. For details, please visit:
https://marunouchi-toei-sayonara0727.jp/