Visit Shrines

Visit Ginza Shrines Vol. 9 Saiwai Inari Shrine

2022.02.01

Isn’t the master of a long-established business your typical image of a town leader?
Of course, the masters of the large shops are the daily protectors of Ginza, but the younger merchants that follow in their footsteps are of equal significance.

Ogikubo: Isn’t the master of a long-established business your typical image of a town leader?　Of course, the masters of the large shops are the daily protectors of Ginza, but the younger merchants that follow in their footsteps are of equal significance.
Uino: It is Reiwa 4. A lot happened last year, and I am so thankful that we can both be here today. Today’s Inari shrine is being protected by the younger generation. It is very promising.
Ogikubo: Oh, where is this shrine?
Uino: It is in Ginza 1-chome.
Ogikubo: Oh? … I think I may know it. Is it not the shrine in this picture?

2008年に撮影した幸稲荷。周辺の工事がはじまりつつある。鳥居の後ろの銀杏にも注目。 — Saiwai Inari in 2008. Construction is starting in the surrounding area. Note the gingko tree behind the Torii gate.

Uino: When was this picture taken?
Ogikubo: : September 2008. I thought I had taken it not so long ago. But it has been 14 years. I took a picture of it, surprised to see an Oinari shrine at such a location when I was taking a stroll through Ginza with my camera.
Uino: I see. Then, let’s go see how the shrine looks today.
Ogikubo: I am a little puzzled. The Inari shrine should be here along Namiki Street but it’s not. A brand new building is standing where it used to be.

2021年撮影。右のビルの角に幸稲荷があった。 — Taken in 2021. The Saiwai Inari shrine formerly stood at the corner of building on the right.

Uino: That’s right. The Inari shrine could not escape the impact of redevelopment and was moved a bit further from the main street. Redevelopment of this area should have taken place in 2008 but things did not go as planned due to the unexpected Lehman crisis among other events. As a result, ownership of the property was transferred, and redevelopment plans were drastically changed.
Ogikubo: Where does the Inari stand now?
Uino: You can see it in the alley at the side of this building.
Ogikubo: Oh, I see. There are directions on a boulevard tree standing close to its original location. It says, “This way to the Saiwai Inari Shrine.”

幸稲荷神社への案内が歩道の並木に置かれていた。 — Directions to the Saiwai Inari shrine were written on the trunk of a boulevard tree along sidewalk

幸稲荷の現在地と旧地。路地の奥だが旧地のすぐ近くに遷座されていた。出典：国土地理院ウェブサイト当該地図を加工して作成。 — The former and present location of Saiwai Inari shrine. In the back of an alley but close to former home.
Source: Geospatial Information Authority of Japan website
当該地図を加工して作成。

Ogikubo: Oh, there is a small but new altar. So, it was moved here. It has been moved farther from the Namiki-dori but the altar is new and modern. And what is more, I’m so happy to see it remaining on a part of the premises.

新しくなった幸稲荷の社。きれいにライトアップされていた。 — Renewed Saiwai Inari Shrine, beautifully lit up.

幸稲荷神社のお社。普段は扉が閉められているが特別に開けて貰って撮影した。 — Altar of Saiwai Inari. It is usually closed to the public but we had it specially opened.

Uino: This Inari shrine was officially re-enshrined by the Fushimi Inari in ancient times. Its original name was Tachiuri Inari, but given a gentler and happier name, Saiwai Inari continues to protect the local people.
Ogikubo: In older times, there were katana and wakisashi sword merchants in this area, so it was often called by its nickname Tachiuri (太刀売, literally meaning “sword-trader”). However, it is written on Edo-Kiriezu of the late Edo period that this area is “called Tachiuri (立売, literally meaning “street trader”).” Therefore, there is a second version to the origin of its naming, which is that traders sold their goods standing along the riverbank. I am not sure which story is true, but I can say for certain that the Inari shrine protected an area where there were many Tachiuri traders.

赤く囲ったところに「立売」と書いてある。出典：国立国会図書館デジタルコレクション江戸切絵図「築地・八丁堀・日本橋南之図」。当該地図を加工して作成。 — It says “Tachiuri” in the area circled in red
Source: “Tsukiji Hacchobori Nihombashi Minami-no-zu”
Edo Kiriezu (National Diet Library digital collection). Retouched relevant map.江戸切絵図「築地・八丁堀・日本橋南之図」。
当該地図を加工して作成。

Ogikubo: The Inari shrine cannot be found on the Edo Kiriezu. I imagine this is because it was a small town shrine. It seems to have been located closer to the river, back then. I purchased a map book called “Chuo-ku Enkaku Zushu” the other day. This Inari was drawn on the “Kahozu (fire map)” of 1947 (Showa 22). You have the same book, Uino-san, don’t you?
Uino: Yes, I ran to the library when I learned of it. This is really an interesting book. I forget the time when I am exploring. I think it will be useful for future Inari excursions. By the way, what is a “Kahozu”?
Ogikubo: Short for “Kasai Hoken Chizu (fire insurance map), it is a map for fire insurance calculations. Back then it was made to calculate fire insurance rates. It is very detailed with information about each house and is known by some people to be an old residential map. According to this, the property alongside Namiki-dori, is marked Inari.

昭和22年の銀座一丁目。「中央区沿革図集［京橋篇］」昭和22年火保図より。（東京都中央区教育委員会）。当該地図を加工して作成。 — Ginza 1-chome in 1947. From “Chuo-ku Enkaku-zushu (Kyobashi-hen) Showa 22 Kahozu”
(Chuo-ku Board of Education, Tokyo). Retouched relevant map.

Uino: It is a devout Shinto shrine from the Edo period. Even today, when it has during the festive season it is gloriously decorated with many streamers.
Ogikubo: I imagine it was a deity for commercial prosperity, as Ginza 1-chome is an old commercial district, located right next to Kyobashi, with a river bank where goods were loaded and unloaded.
Uino: It seems a “mikoshi” portable shrine made an appearance during festivals. The mikoshi still exists, but it is difficult to carry one around Ginza in modern times.
Ogikubo: Cooperation from the local community and many people is essential to carry around a mikoshi. By the way, new buildings have increased in Ginza, as a result of development projects. Are there fewer private stores and old businesses continuing business in the area?
Uino: Yes, it has become difficult to run a business in a big city without the backbone of corporations and investors. But the people taking care of this Inari shrine are the young keepers of local businesses who were born and raised in Ginza. The youngest of the young, so to speak. These days these young storeowners of long-established businesses get together and come up with new ideas for local events. A relaunch of mikoshi carrying may not be so far in the future!
Ogikubo: It would be exciting to see a mikoshi walking through the streets of Ginza.
Uino: Their young energy may make this dream true. There is another sign of hope that the Saiwai Inari shows us.
Ogikubo: Oh, what is it?
Uino: It is the holy ginkgo tree that used to stand on the shrine premises.
Ogikubo: Ah, it is in the picture I took in 2008. There is a ginkgo tree in front of the altar.
Uino: The tree could not be replanted on the new shrine property, but followers cut off some of the branches and planted them in different places. One of them is just nearby so let’s go take a look. It is this way.

移植された銀杏。後ろにみえるのが首都高。まだ小ぶりだが、どんどん成長していくはず。 — : Replanted ginkgo tree. Metropolitan Highway in the back.
Still small, but sure to grow steadily.

Ogikubo: This is under the Metropolitan Expressway, where the former riverbank of Kyobashigawa River which ran under Kyobashi Bridge used to be. But there is no way of knowing that this is part of the gingko tree that used stand in the premises of the shrine. I think it would be a good idea to put up a sign here. A simple map of the way to the Inari may also be a helpful for walkers.

銀杏を別の角度から。しっかり根付いているのがわかる。 — The gingko tree from a different angle. Evidently firmly rooted.

Uino: Yes. I am happy to witness the young ginkgo growing, firmly rooted in the ground. It is clear proof that the Inari shrine is being succeeded by the younger generation. The town of Ginza is going through rapid change, but I hope its good parts will remain. I hope the next generation will live in the Ginza with all its old charm.
Ogikubo: I think one of the appealing points of Tokyo is that old and new coexist.

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